The White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park is among the most celebrated and sought-after mountain bike rides in Utah. The trail, scenery, distance and remoteness all add to its legend and charm. It is on the life list of many mountain bikers and has to be ridden to be truly appreciated or understood. Some friends and I recently rode the White Rim Trail over four days and three nights and had an incredible journey.
The first day on the White Rim Trail started out freezing cold. The ground around the Island in the Sky Visitor Center was covered in snow, and a sharp wind was blowing across the top of the mesa. We bundled up in ski coats and gloves, and rode our bikes down the Shafer Trail switchbacks that descend to the White Rim of Canyonlands National Park.
There were 10 of us on this trip with three support vehicles carrying all the food, water and camping supplies. As we coasted down to a lower elevation near the river, the air warmed up to a point where we could shed some layers and continue on into the desert.
The trail wound its way along the White Rim near the canyon edge, high above the Colorado River. Millions of years of erosion carved out the canyon, leaving behind the white rock that gives the trail its name. The way was well traveled and we followed along the white rock, jeep trails and sandy washes, stopping only for picture taking and sight seeing at Musselman Arch and Airport Tower.
The biking on the first day was mostly downhill, smooth and enjoyable. It was a cruiser day with friends in one of the most beautiful places on earth. The beauty, in fact, caused us to dally for too long. It was getting late and we were still 18 miles from our campsite. We stayed focused for the rest of the day and pedaled hard on the well-traveled road in order to get there before dark.
As the sun dipped low on the horizon and the cold began to settle back into the canyon, we reached our first campsite at the Gooseberry campground. Red rock cliffs surrounded us as we pitched tents and cooked dinner amidst the glowing, red sandstone. After eating, the sun disappeared and the temperature rapidly dropped to the expected overnight low of 23 degrees. Once again, the ski jackets and gloves came out. We kept warm by drinking hot chocolate and sharing stories before turning in for the night.
Day one on the White Rim Trail was long and cold, but the biking and scenery were spectacular. Day two promised to be warmer, but we had more mileage to cover in order to reach the Candlestick campground. We knew the biggest challenge of the day would be the infamous Murphy’s Hogback which loomed before us. . .
If you go: Permits have to be reserved a year in advance to secure the best camping sites in the spring or fall when the temperatures in the desert are mild. The White Rim Trail is 100 miles long (80 if you use shuttle vehicles to cut out the paved road) and is best done in four days. You will need support vehicles to carry food, water and camping gear. There is not much technical about the ride, but the distance and several steep hills require riders to be in good shape. It gets cold at night, so winter clothing is recommended.