Canyonlands National Park is a vast area in southeastern Utah filled with, you guessed it, canyons. The powerful draw of the desert is overwhelming in this haven of red rocks and sand. Lizards, ravens and a handful of other hearty creatures call this place home, but little else can thrive here except the spirit of the tribes that once called this area home. The park itself is so vast that it is divided into three four areas: Island in the Sky, Horseshoe Canyon, The Maze, and The Needles. All provide incredible landscapes for outdoor recreation, and all four have a specific draw. In the Needles area, Chesler Park and its wild mix of eroded spires gets all the pub. But when the perfect springtime weather draws large crowds to the Chesler region, there are other options for those seeking solace.
Lost Canyon is a riparian zone filled with lush grasses, towering cottonwoods and a dazzling display of color that cannot usually be found in these parts. For the thoughtful seeker the canyon walls can reveal old cowboy camps, Kiva ruins and ancient artwork. One thing you won’t find much of is people, and that’s the main draw here. This hike begins at the Squaw Flat trailhead, and on the mid-April day we set out, the parking lot was a crowded scene of tourists, students, and well traveled desert lovers.
Head down the Big Springs Canyon trail and you are immediately plunged into a different world. The sandy trail quickly delivers views of the fins and towers of Chesler Park, and reveals sights that hikers don’t normally associate with an arid region: pine trees and pockets of water against a background of blue skies and puffy clouds. Continuing through the canyon several backcountry campsites are more than adequate for a night’s stay, but the journey is just beginning. A few miles in and the trail becomes a slickrock scramble guided by the occasional rock cairn. Then comes the ascent. With a pack on your back it looks daunting, but your effort of scrambling out of Big Springs is rewarded with remarkable views of the surrounding terra. This is getting good.
Use the smooth pass between Big Springs and Squaw canyons to catch your breath and grab a quick bite to eat, for there is plenty more ground to cover. This is the only portion of the hike that could be considered “busy,” and that’s a stretch. From here you will head back down the sloping rocks into Squaw Canyon, the next leg of the journey. The trail is well marked the whole time, so getting lost is more of a luxury than a hazard. Follow the trail around the edge of the canyon, play above the massive cracks in the rock, and take it all in. In Squaw Canyon the hiking takes a turn back to the sandy, so the going is bit tougher… but if you don’t sweat a little, would it really be fun? More campsites are available in this area, but the real trail still awaits.
It’s not long until you will arrive at a well marked junction for Peekaboo Springs; this is your turn off. Head down the well made rock staircase and when you arrive at the bottom, feel free to gasp. You are now in Lost Canyon, and it is quite aptly named. Near the canyon’s head, the vegetation is so dense and vibrant you might think you’ve been transported to a distant jungle. During the spring season water runs close to the trail the entire time. Instead of barren sagebrush and the occasional batch of cryptobiotic soil you are instead surrounded by tall reeds and cottonwood trees. Truly a desert oasis. The path undulates and occasionally takes you up the slickrock of the canyon wall, only to send you hop stepping back down to the sand a few turns later. The sandy parts are hard going, but you hardly notice the distance with so many sights to see. There are three campsites available in Lost Canyon, and if choice is a luxury then go with LC2, the most private of the lot. Set up your shelter or spread out on the ground, just be aware you are not the only one calling this incredible place home for the night; scorpions, rattlesnakes and other creatures of the night are on the hunt! Bask in the glow of the rocks and get ready for real peace and quiet; you might not sleep better at home on your queen sized pillow top.
The walk out is short and pleasant. Rise early and beat the heat while taking in similar sights to those on the way in. Keep your eyes peeled for ruins and artwork; they aren’t marked on any maps but rest assured they are out there. There is even a fixed ladder to assist you on your final rise out of Lost Canyon; definitely not a common sight in an area this rugged. The ladder serves as a reminder that while this area might seem miles from anywhere, you are still in a National Park, and this is just one of the luxuries afforded by coming here. Take one final look into the lush abyss and beat out back to the trailhead; Lost Canyon isn’t the only riparian canyon in the deserts of Utah, but it sure is a good one.