The Sport Utility Wall is a large crag just north of Pete’s Rock in the Mount Olympus area. Right next to Wasatch Boulevard and above I-215, it is an urban climbing area with lots of noise but sweeping views of the Salt Lake Valley. Featuring moderate sport climbs, it’s a good place for a spring warm-up when snow still covers the climbs in the canyons. Below are three popular climbs at Sport Utility Wall.
Bland Cherokee. Rated at 5.10a, Bland Cherokee is the second hardest climb on the crag behind Hiditaka Suzuki’s Sidekick (5.10c).
Bland Cherokee is located on the west face of the Sport Utility Wall above a small cave. The start makes things interesting from the get-go as a short roof must be pulled before ascending up the actual face. Strong holds and ample shelves for feet once made the start doable, but last year a major block of quartzite broke off, leaving a gaping hole where a crucial foot hold used to be.
Once the mini-roof is conquered, easier face climbing leads to the crux about three-quarters of the way up. At this point, an overhanging, off-balance section blocks the way to the top. Finding good balance and using good, sloping holds for lay-back moves will get a climber past this section. A final blank face with tricky feet completes the climb to the chain anchors at the top.
Bland Cherokee is a sport climb requiring 6 draws (4 bolts and 2 for the chains). At 5.10a, it is somewhat difficult and will pump the forearms, but it’s short and seems easier than longer 5.10s where more endurance is required.
Wrangler Girls. Rated at 5.9, this route is a straightforward face climb on classic Wasatch quartzite. Like all climbs at Sport Utility Wall, it is a short route that requires 5 quick draws plus 2 for the chains at the top. The initial moves feel more like a 5.8 climb with good holds, but the roof near the top is the crux that has an awkward 5.9 move.
Wrangler Girls is a good lead for climbers breaking into the 5.9 range, but it can also be set up as a top rope after a quick scramble around the crag to the top of the chain anchors. The climb is located on the west face and begins just to the right of the shallow cave at the bottom of the crag.
Lots of sloping holds provide stable hands and feet, but the difficulty lies in the fact the the climb is slightly overhanging. Although the roof at the top is small, there is a big move on a poor handhold that spices up the route. Luckily there is another “thank God” hold once the big move is made. Once past the crux, easy moves finish the climb to the chains.
Short Roof. Rated at 5.7, this climb is exactly as its name implies. It is a very short route with only 3 bolts plus chains at the top. The main feature is a fun little roof in the middle that has good holds.
Because it’s easy and small, Short Roof may be written off by many climbers who are there to tick off the more burly 5.9 and 5.10 climbs. But for anyone who is an aspiring lead climber, or for beginners who need practice pulling roofs, this climb is perfect. It is an easy lead, but can be set up as a top rope.
The climb begins at a tiny slab with good hand holds to the first bolt. After manuevering under the roof and carefully clipping the second bolt (long arms are helpful) pull the roof while trying not to sit on a rock horn that ends up directly below. Keep your feet high, and once over the roof, it’s all simple moves on another slab-like section to the anchors.
These three climbs at Sport Utility Wall offer easy access, low elevation, and million-dollar views of the valley. Although short and definitely not peaceful, the wall is perfect for getting in a quick workout on a decent crag.