Rock climbing in the Wasatch Mountains has a deep history thanks to generations of climbers who pioneered routes on the granite and quartzite in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Every canyon that spills down from the Wasatch into our backyards along the Salt Lake Valley is filled with world-class crags and climbing routes.
Pick up any local guide book and you’ll see names like Harold Goodro, Fred Beckey and George Lowe, which are all passed with reverence between Salt Lake area climbers, as many of the most popular climbs in the Cottonwood Canyons were first ascended by them. The routes put up by climbing legends who came before opened the door to a sport and trad climbing playground that gains in popularity every year.
Over 1,450 climbing routes are described in the guidebook, “Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range,” and since its publication in 1998, many more climbs have been discovered. The Wasatch Mountains have climbs suitable for everyone, from the first-time novice to the expert. Traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, top-roping and even aid climbing can be done on the cliffs that cover the range. Even the different types of rock give climbers some variety. One day can be spent on quartzite in Big Cottonwood Canyon, the next day on granite in Little Cottonwood and another day on limestone in American Fork Canyon.
From top-rope beginner areas like Dogwood to the crack climbing meccas of Pentapitch and the Schoolroom, if it’s a moderate climb that first timers and intermediates can enjoy, you can bet there is someone ascending it every day in the warmer months. So as the temperatures rise, get the quickdraws and slings organized, flake out the rope, check the harness loops, and start planning a summer’s worth of climbing trips in Utah’s high country.
For more information and route descriptions, the book “Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range” by Stewart and Bret Ruckman. It’s a great resource for rock climbers and includes comprehensive beta on all of the climbs in the Wasatch Mountains along with photos, route descriptions and topos.