Transformer is a lesser-known sport climb in the otherwise overcrowded Storm Mountain Area in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Located at the Static Wall, Transformer is a good chance to get away from the crowds lining up to climb the easier routes. There are only three climbs on Static Wall, and unless you are an expert 5.13 climber, then Transformer is your only option.
Transformer is a fun 5.8 climb on classic Big Cottonwood quartzite. Large, blocky holds and slick, slanting feet comprise the route. But despite the abundance of holds, a vertical surface increases the difficulty. In addition, the bolts are widely spaced, making the protection feel scarce. One section in particular between the second and third bolt causes a serious mind game as a fall could go to the ground. Luckily, the climbing in that spot isn’t tough, but clipping that third bolt is still a “thank God” moment.
The climb is long, but a 60 meter rope will suffice. There are seven bolts on the climb and chain anchors at the top, so 9 quick draws are needed.
Overall, Transformer is a fun climb that will pump the forearms. It’s also a good lead climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders and is a desirable place to set up a top rope for the less experienced. After climbing to the top and anchoring in, be sure to take in the sweet view of Storm Mountain across the canyon.
To get to the Static Wall and Transformer, Drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon and park on the road across from the Storm Mountain Fee Area then walk through the picnic sites. Cross the river and a flat grassy spot to a noticeable trail that goes north up into the trees on a talus slope. Stay right as going left will lead to the Bumblebee Wall. Once at the Static Wall, Transformer is the obvious bolted route in the middle of the cliff.
For more information about this and other rock climbing routes in the Wasatch, the guide book Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range is a must have.