Ferguson Canyon is a small cleft just south of Big Cottonwood Canyon in the Wasatch Range. Because of its proximity to its world-famous neighbors, Ferguson often gets overlooked by rock climbers. But once you enter its shady passages, you’ll find excellent climbing routes hidden away from the hot summer sun. One of those places is The Watchtower. Below are four easy-to-moderate climbs for a day well spent on the cliffs in Ferguson Canyon.
Outer Darkness 5.3 Trad
Outer Darkness is a big, obvious chimney and is the first one you run into as you approach The Watchtower. It’s a very easy climb rated at 5.3, meaning it’s a good place to learn how to place trad gear. It’s also attractive to those crazies who want to free solo something they’re less likely to fall on. Call it a good warm-up before tackling the more serious climbs on the wall.
The Confessional 5.6 Trad
Next up is The Confessional. This route is a trad climb with a 5.6 rating that is easy to protect, but can be challenging for bigger climbers thanks to a squeeze through a mini tunnel right at the start. Once you hump yourself and your gear through the tight spot, it’s a simple cruise up the face to the base of Faultline Variation. The Confessional can be found to the left of the Extreme Unction roof climb.
Faultline Variation 5.9- Trad
Now the fun begins. After finishing The Confessional, walk left to the base of Faultline Variation. It’s the line on the right of the Watchtower proper. The Confessional is a stout 5.9 trad climb for leaders new to the grade, but it’s also extremely fun with many moves needed to make it to the top such as face climbing on small footholds, a bit of laybacking, a small roof, and even a gigantic bat guano ledge-hazard to avoid.
Extreme Unction 5.10a Trad/Toprope
This is the climb everyone comes to Ferguson Canyon for. If you or your partners have never climbed a 5.10-grade roof, or you need some practice, then Extreme Unction is the place to do it. It’s a not-very-well-protected trad climb that almost always is set up as a top rope. Setting up the anchors is easy after a short hike around the backside of the cliff to the top. In our case, we set up the rope after rapping down from Faultline Variation.
The climb itself is classic. A short upside-down staircase leads to easy face climbing to a ledge where you can rest before the big, forearm-pumping roof. It takes a little thought to come up with the proper sequence of moves to clean the roof, making it the perfect test piece for aspiring 5.10 leaders.
Ferguson Canyon is located just south of Big Cottonwood Canyon in the Salt Lake Valley. You can find the trailhead on Timberline Drive. Park only in the designated parking or you will get a ticket. Hike up the trail for 15 minutes until you come to the first crag in the canyon. The Watchtower is on the right. Chances are people will be climbing there so you’ll know you’ve arrived.
For more information on these and other climbs in Ferguson Canyon, you have to have “Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range.” It’s the climber’s bible for Northern Utah and belongs on the shelf of everybody who plays on the crags around the Salt Lake canyons.