Who wouldn’t want to climb at a place called Bong Eater? The Bong Eater Buttress is located in Little Cottonwood Canyon and is the first major rock outcrop on the north side of the canyon. The centerpiece route on this granite prow is the namesake climb – Bong Eater.
Bong Eater is a Wasatch classic. First ascended in 1964, this route is a beautiful hand crack in a corner that splits right down the granite dihedral. This climb, though one of the best crack climbs in Little Cottonwood, is not easy. Bong Eater is a one-pitch trad climb rated at 5.10d, and it will work you.
But despite the difficulty, Bong Eater is a seriously fun climb. The route begins as a slabby crack climb with straightforward moves. The crack eventually gets steeper and thinner as you climb, until bomber hand and finger jams allow you to continue the ascent. But this start is only rated at 5.8. The crux lies at the top, when the hand crack gives way to an off-width that will either have you groveling, or liebacking to reach the top. Either way, you’ll feel the forearm pump because the crux is strenuous and hard to protect. Once you get over the overhanging top, an easy scramble leads to a double anchor with chains.
At 5.10d, Bong Eater is a serious climb for leaders. But if you want to get a workout or crack-climbing practice, then you can easily set up a top rope by bushwhacking around to the top of the buttress on the right side. Setting up a toprope is a real good way to get a feel for the climb and figure out the moves until you’re ready to attempt a lead climb.
There are other climbs on Bong Eater Buttress as well, though most people make the trip for the classic crack. The two-pitch trad climb Desperado is rated at 5.8 and is located on the left hand side of the rock. Prowser is a difficult 5.12b climb with microwafers, just left of the obvious corner. Bong Eater also has an alternate start called Hand Eater which is a 5.10b crack to the right. Above Bong Eater Buttress is another crag called Burner Buttress, featuring trad climbs from 5.8 to 5.10d.
To get to the Bong Eater Buttress, park in the lot at the bottom of Little Cottonwood Canyon. The access trail can be found in the northeast corner of the lot. The path switchbacks a few times and is made obvious by the natural rock stairs near the bottom. The trail winds through a grove of scrub oak until it forks. Take the left fork for a short 20 feet, then take the trail that branches off to the right. If you don’t take this trail, you’ll get lost. Follow this right fork as it steeply climbs through the brush to the bottom of Bong Eater Buttress. Bong Eater is located in the corner system that splits down the crag.
Any way you slice it, Bong Eater is a killer climb that is easily reached from the parking lot, can be set up as a top rope, and will test your climbing endurance. Might as well make it your go-to climb for a quick workout or to sharpen up your crack climbing skills.
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