It’s our third day in the Bear Rivers, and the sun finally comes out. I’m standing on top of an east-facing headwall near Steam Mill Peak at the head of Hell’s Kitchen Canyon, about to make what are the best turns of the trip. After watching Lexi Dowdall and Adam Symonds drop in, I let gravity take over. Around 6 inches of new snow fell during the week, and it all came in upside down. Upon my first turn, I know this run is going to perfectly cap our time at the Steam Mill Yurt. The snow is creamy and every carve rebounds like the snow is a mountain-wide trampoline. At the bottom, we whoop with delight – equal parts joy and sadness as it’s the last run of the trip.
The Steam Mill Yurt is located in the Bear River Range northeast of Logan, Utah. It’s one of three yurts operated by Powder Ridge Ski Touring, which includes the Bunchgrass Yurt just south of Steam Mill, and the Green Canyon Yurt which is better suited to Nordic skiers and snowshoers. As for backcountry skiing, the terrain around the Steam Mill Yurt in Hells Kitchen Canyon is ideal. All around the yurt, there’s open bowls, tree skiing, gnarly chutes that spill from summits and even low-angle meadows for hippie turns on high avalanche danger days.
We start off at the Franklin Basin trailhead, where dozens of snowmobile trailers are already parked. This is the entrance to sled-heaven. Luckily for us, Hells Kitchen is a no-snowmobile zone. After a mile up the packed road, we turn west into a narrow valley and skin up through aspens with only the sound of our skis to break the silence.
Mason Diedrich and Zach Scribner have their gear loaded onto pulks – sled-type contraptions that let you pull gear and beer rather than carry the weight of three days on your shoulders. It works really good as long as the slope angles never get too steep on the approach. After exiting the lower canyon, the terrain opens up and we get a view of our ski terrain. Steam Mill Peak to the south is the largest mountain, with an obvious ski run on the east ridge that falls into a shoulder to the valley floor. Quickened by the sight, we skin faster and reach the yurt in the early afternoon.
After lunch and starting a fire in the wood stove for snowmelt, we continue beyond the yurt, following the ridge above upper Franklin Basin. Snowmobiles buzz far below and their tracks come all the way to the divide. But we discover untracked powder near the trees where sleds can’t fit, and make turns in the fluff. The snow is excellent. In fact, those few turns are among the best of the season. Relieved, we skin back up to the yurt, excited about tomorrow’s prospects.
The best part of a yurt trip next to the skiing, is what happens in the yurt. Life returns to a simpler time, where all you have to worry about is chopping wood, melting snow for water, keeping the wood stove going, making dinner, and drinking good beer and whiskey with friends. Time goes by fast, even though all electronics, connectivity and distraction are taken away. As a result, I sleep like a rock.
On our second day, we beeline to Steam Mill Peak. A couple guys the day before already broke trail, so we use their skin track to reach the summit in short order. To our surprise, another group with dogs fall in right behind us. It seems that the area is popular with locals on day tours despite the longer approach. From the top, we leap frog down the mountainside, and make sweeping turns around wide-spaced evergreens before bombing down the open face on the east shoulder. Elated, we go up for two more runs before calling it a day back at the yurt.
The following morning, Zach and Mason have to leave for work, so Lexi, Adam and I skin further up canyon to explore a different zone. There are two unnamed mountains adjacent to Steam Mill Peak with rocky chutes and wide open bowls that looked mighty tasty the day before. But as we approach, we discover that someone had poached our goods and tracked almost the entire east face. Undeterred and motivated by the warm, morning sun, we switchback near the top and find untouched lines to the sides of the farmed curves.
But time only allows for two laps so as I stand at the top and watch Lexi and Adam ski first, I know I better savor this run. I check and recheck the ski mode on my boots, adjust my goggles, click my poles together, and let gravity take over.
Details: To reserve the Steam Mill Yurt, contact Powder Ridge Ski Touring on their website. The yurt sleeps 6 people though there are only 4 bunks – the other 2 have to sleep on provided cots. Amenities include a wood burning stove with plenty of wood, LP gas cook stove and LED lanterns. Pots, pans, dishes and utensils for cooking make up the kitchen. A makeshift outhouse is near the yurt. The cost is $150 on Friday and Saturday nights, and $100 Sunday through Thursday in addition to a $50 deposit.