Cataract Canyon: even the name is legendary. The Powell expedition of 1869, led by John Wesley Powell, was the first to explore this very remote, uncharted section of the Colorado River, and Cataract Canyon remains remote to this day. Located in Canyonlands National Park, just below the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers, Cataract Canyon is home to the biggest whitewater rapids in Utah. And while rafting is the canyon’s primary draw, there is much more to explore along the shore.
A rafting trip through Cataract Canyon can take anywhere from 1-7 days depending on what style of boat you are using. Jet boats cruise over the flat water to get right to the rapids, while paddle boats take a leisurely time floating and relaxing until the big rapids day. Trips generally put in at Potash near Moab, and take out near Hite Marina on Lake Powell.
A Cataract Canyon trip is 112 miles long, with 46 miles of it inside the actual canyon. This is where the rapids live. But before you get wet in class-4 whitewater, there are several hikes and points of interest you absolutely must check out as you make your way down river.
Petrified Wood
One of the first hikes you come to is a short trail that leads to a very well-preserved forest of petrified wood. Entire tree trunks stick out from sandstone cliffs, uncovered through erosion after being buried for millions of years. The trees are so well preserved, you can see tree rings and bark. Southern Utah was a wet, lush forest back in prehistoric times, and the trees were covered in mud during a cataclysmic event. The sudden burial kept the wood from rotting and over time, it transformed into mineral for us to see today. It’s a fascinating place.
Lathrop and Indian Canyons
Further downriver is Lathrop Canyon. Here you’ll find another short hike to a few ancient Indian ruins and spectacular rock art and even hand prints left behind thousands of years ago. The ruins are too small to be domiciles, yet too big to be granaries. Each is hidden beneath shady alcoves that overlook the river. Above and around them are good examples of pictographs – rock art painted on the sandstone walls. Here you can see desert bighorn sheep, humanoid figures, and mysterious hand prints, one of which is missing a finger.
A bit farther down river from Lathrop is Indian Canyon. More granaries are found here, all lined up on a cliff edge overlooking a lush canyon bottom. As you stand here and look at the squat structures, it’s hard to imagine living in this place. It would have been a tough existence.
Loop Hike
The Loop Hike isn’t a loop hike at all, but a shortcut that traverses over a large ridge between a massive curve in the river. That curve is the loop, and you can leave your boat on one side, hike over the ridge, and back down to rejoin your boat on the other side. The hike is an excellent way to stretch your legs after sitting on a raft all day, plus the view from the top of the Colorado wending its way through the canyon is remarkable and well worth the effort. The hike itself is only 700-verticla feet over about a mile. It’s steep, but not long.
The Doll House
By far the best hike in Cataract Canyon is the Doll House. The name refers to a series of candy-colored spires that rise far above the river. When Powell first saw them, he called them The Sentinels. But the name changed when a rancher’s daughter thought one particular formation looked like a doll house. Slowly the name spread to the whole region.
To get to the Doll House, you have to hike a steep trail from Spanish Bottom. A thousand vertical-feet later, you reach it – a large outcrop of Cedar Mesa Sandstone that has been weathered into a collection of beautiful towers and spires. Be sure to bring a cemera because you’ll want photos of these fantastic rocks. Overlooks provide a view of the Needles District across Cataract Canyon while the Colorado River stretches far below. Further in the distance, the La Sal Mountains shimmer on the horizon.
Well maintained trails lead you to more granaries, while a different path goes inside the Doll House where you can explore shadowed hallways between rock towers. Squeeze through a narrow slot, and turn a corner into a cave called the Icebox. Inside, the temperature drops 20 degrees and you can feel a breeze rushing through a gap in the rock like nature’s own air conditioner. Enjoy this place, because the Doll House is one of the most remote, hard-to-get-to places in Utah. It’s a 6-hour drive from the Hans Flat Ranger Station on 4×4 tracks through the Maze District. You’re lucky to arrive by river.
Cataract Canyon Rapids
When the Green and Colorado converge, the river doubles in size. Such big water creates even bigger rapids when Cataract Canyon narrows beyond Spanish Bottom. In total you’ll encounter 24 rapids in 15 miles, and each is a thrill ride. Notable rapids include: Mile-Long Rapid, Brown Betty, and Capsize Rapid, to name a few. But the Big Drops are the spookiest, big water rapids around. Each is a lineup of drops and falls that create holes and waves the size of your boat. These rapids are so big, individual hydraulic features have names like Little Niagara, Satan’s Gut, The Claw, and the Red Wall. In high water (from 30,000 to 50,000 cfs) the waves are huge and can easily flip a boat or even be deadly. This is what you traveled many miles to experience. Enjoy the ride and prepare to get drenched.
Dark Canyon
This is perhaps a hike that rivals the Doll House, mostly because of the canyon’s signature feature: her deep pools. Located 18 miles before the takeout near Hite Marina, the hike begins with a bushwhack in tamarisk, followed by a trudge through sludgy water. Eventually, the hike follows a tiny creek to a series of clear pools fed by small waterfalls. Each is an irresistible swimming hole. Dive off rock ledges into the water, cool off, and revel in this desert oasis. It’s the last stop before the takeout, so savor the moment.
To find an outfitter and guides to take you on your Cataract Canyon adventure, check out this list from utah.com