One of the most gratifying aspects of backcountry skiing in the Wasatch besides actually skiing, is showing off the awesome terrain and snow to people from out of town. It’s even sweeter when a visitor comes away with a full dose of stoke. It’s easy for Utah to provide, but timing on snow conditions can be off.
Such was the case with Brad Steele from backcountryskiingcanada.com. He was in Salt Lake City for the bi-annual Outdoor Retailer show, and was keen on touring after a couple days of walking the convention center floor. His last two trips to Utah resulted in less-than-stellar snow conditions (understandable considering how awful our snowpack has been since 2011). So this year was high time for Brad to actually ski powder in the Cottonwood Canyons. Luckily Mother Nature gave us snow. I just had to provide the rest.
Happy to breathe fresh mountain air instead of toiling in a cavernous building, we drove up Big Cottonwood Canyon and joined Adam Symonds and Mason Diedrich. On the way up, I was flabbergasted at how crowded the backcountry was, even early in the morning. From Mineral Fork to Silver Fork, every trailhead was packed with vehicles (I blame Outdoor Retailer). Even Spruces Campground was nearly to overflowing. Luckily, we found room to park at Beartrap Fork, which pretty much dictated our tour for the day.
As soon as we got onto the skin track and I stuck my pole into the snow, I knew it was going to be good. The powder was old, but still fluffy and cold. We first skied the Beartrap Aspens – perfectly spaced trees on a 800-foot vertical shot. On the way up, a massive view of Big Cottonwood Canyon allowed me to show off the variety of terrain that can be skied in this drainage alone. On the descent, we found soft powder that was so good we went up for seconds.
After run #2, I suggested we go further up-canyon to the Beartrap Glades. The terrain is much like what we just skied, but with more open meadows and tree skiing in evergreen forests. The snow is deeper and more sheltered here, and today was no different. It was easily the best snow of the day and made us hunger for more. The only downside was that it was by far the most crowded spot in Beartrap. At least 4 touring parties crested the ridge behind us, including a large group from Black Diamond out testing the new Helio line of skis. The obvious descent lines were already tracked out, but a short traverse south put us on a zone with few tracks, and the snow was delicious.
Ready for one last go, we ascended the other side of the canyon to the top of West Desolation Ridge. The snow quality here on a more east-facing slope wasn’t as good, but we only hit a crusty layer under the pow on a few turns. But it was the steepest and most open line of the day and proved to be good fun.
Day two and the Canadian was jonesing for more. He said that Beartrap Fork was the best backcountry skiing he’d experienced in the Wasatch… but could we top it? In search for untracked snow further afield, we parked at Spruces Campground in Big Cottonwood and hooked up with Mike DeBernardo and Lance Peterson. After a bit of conversing on our options, we settled on Little Water Peak. The approach is long for the Wasatch, but still a mere 2-hours at a good clip as the route climbs up Mill D North Fork to Dog Lake, then north on the flanks of Little Water Peak to the summit. With no visible line from below (unlike Reynolds Peak across the way) few people make the effort to ski Little Water.
Just before reaching the summit cone, there is a saddle, and north of that saddle is a face that ends in evergreen trees. This is Little Water Gulch. The day was cold and the snow recrystalized. We dropped in, and found a foot of untracked blower. The run was so good, we skied it twice before making a home-run off the summit down the mountain’s south-facing slopes back into Mill D North Fork. Brad exclaimed that Little Water was the best powder he has skied all season. Coming from a guy who skis in Nelson, British Columbia, a location on the “Powder Highway,” I say that is very high praise indeed.
Yes, it feels damn good to show off our little mountain range to out-of-towners, and it feels even better when they discover for themselves what makes the Central Wasatch so damn special. Despite agreeing with our dubious moniker of Wasangeles, and complaining (a lot) about our steep skin tracks, Brad clearly enjoyed being baptized in Utah’s legendary powder.
If you ever plan a backcountry skiing trip to Canada, be sure to look Brad Steele up first thing. He’s the best resource you can find who knows about the area, especially in British Columbia. I took advantage of his knowledge when I traveled there last year, and had a memorable time. Go to his website, backcountryskiingcanada.com, where you can read about the myriad huts, guide companies, mountain passes, and even resort-accessed backcountry. He also publishes a series of pocket guidebooks as well.