Even though Utah has some of the best outdoor recreation in a world, sometimes it’s nice to get away and explore the mountains of neighboring states. Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming contains a classic mountain range that is a short drive from Utah, and the Tetons are filled with legendary rock climbing routes like the Exum Direct on the Grand Teton herself. At 13,770 feet, the Grand towers a thousand feet higher than any other mountain for hundreds of miles in any direction. As a result, it’s the peak everyone wants to stand on top of.
There are several ways to ascend to the top of the Grand Teton, all of which require some rock climbing skills. The Owen-Spaulding Route is the easiest way up and perhaps the most famous (and popular.) But the Exum Direct Route is probably the favorite among moderate trad-climbers looking for a simple, yet challenging climb to the top.
The climb is divided into two sections, the Lower Exum Ridge and the Upper Exum Ridge. The Lower Exum consists of six pitches of quality 5.7 climbing up the southwest side of the mountain. The first pitch is a large chimney that reaches a nice ledge. From there, cracks and ledge climbing comprise the next three pitches, culminating in another chimney pitch with a large chockstone in it (the third and fourth pitches can be combined, though the rope drag is heinous.) The fifth and sixth pitches feature more crack climbing on smooth granite to the Wall Street Ledge.
The Upper Exum Ridge starts at Wall Street and is where many guided groups begin climbing after branching off the Owen-Spaulding route. It’s no wonder that traffic jams up here as it is a spectacular way to climb the Grand Teton. The names of the pitches, such as The Golden Staircase, the Wind Tunnel, the Friction Pitch and the “V” Pitch, all pretty much describe what climbers will encounter. Some experienced parties choose to free-solo the route as it is mostly easy scrambling with sections of 5.5 climbing. For the less-experienced, it is a good idea to rope up, as most of the climbing is very exposed and a single mistake could be fatal.
After the final pitch, a simple traverse and scramble leads to the top of the Grand Teton. Hundreds of miles of landscape stretch out in all directions in the most spectacular view anywhere. The forests of Yellowstone and Jackson Lake to the north, the plains and mountains of Idaho to the west, and the ranges and peaks of Wyoming to the south and east can be taken in all at once.
After pictures and a snack, the best way to get off the mountain is by descending the Owen-Spaulding Route. Basically, it follows the path of least resistance down the west side of the peak until it reaches two rappels (the second being 120 feet) that lead to an obvious descent the rest of the way down.
Many people get a midnight start at the trail head and climb the Grand Teton in a day, but for anyone who wants to actually relax and enjoy the scenery, backpacking is the way to go. There are several campsites along the way (permits required,) but the Lower Saddle is considered the best as it is right at the start of the climbing routes, has a natural spring, and camp sites are surrounded by wind-blocking rock walls. Plus, the views alone are well worth humping a heavy, gear-filled pack to the saddle.
On summit day, get a sunrise start and climb the Lower Saddle to the north until a black band of rock is reached. Scramble east until a large ramp going back to the west is located. Heading up this wide ramp leads to the chimney start of the first pitch of the Lower Exum Route.
For protective gear, a small rack of cams and nuts is sufficient and helmets are a good idea as rockfall is a possibility. As with all mountain climbing, reaching the summit before noon is best, as afternoon thunderstorms and lightning are very common in the Teton Range.
Overall, climbing the Grand Teton is a very fulfilling and epic experience for anyone looking to take a break from the sport crags. Linking traditional routes to the top of a fabled peak among some of the most celebrated scenery in the world has got to be the best possible way for climbers to spend a three-day-weekend.
For topos and detailed route descriptions, check out “Teton Rock Climbs: A Digital Guidebook.” It’s a great resource for anyone on a rock climbing trip to the Teton Mountains.