The Above and Beyond Wall is your typical quartzite Big Cottonwood Canyon climbing area, found just past the S-Curves about 4.5 miles up the canyon. It’s a south-facing series of cliffs that get hot like an oven in the summer, but is best for climbing in the spring or fall on sunny days. The climbing is mostly moderate to difficult sport climbs, ranging from 5.10a to 5.12 with a few mixed and trad routes thrown in as well. Because of the higher level of routes found here, most climbers gravitate to Ascent of a Man.
Ascent of a Man is one of the easier sport climbs on the wall at a rating of 5.10a. The route is a really fun climb for the leader as the moves consist of mostly side-pulls and lay-backs on solid quartzite. Overall, the climbing is steep to overhanging, but good hands keep the confidence levels high even though a few sections seem to have no obvious features to grasp for.
The bolt placement protects well, and the climb requires four quickdraws plus two for the anchors at the top. Ascent of a Man is the western-most climb of the central section of the wall, on a corner with small roofs as the main feature.
Other climbs at Above and Beyond Wall include a 5.7 trad climb called The Call of Duty, another 5.10 trad route known as The Leak, the 5.10d Do or Dive, Hari (5.10d), The Horse’s Mouth (5.10a) and Randy’s Polka (5.11d).
To find the Above and Beyond Wall, drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon for approximately 4.5 miles to a pullout on the north side of the road, just above the S-Curves. A large, loose talus slope, bordered by pines and oak trees rises up from here, and this must be climbed to a faint trail that is marked by an occasional cairn. Lots of stumbling on loose rocks and bush-whacking through the foliage will lead a climber to the huge band of rock where the routes are located.
For more rock climbing guides, buy “Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range” by Stuart and Bret Ruckman.