Rock climbing Glass Ocean
Big Cottonwood Canyon’s Glass Ocean rock climb is described on Mountain Project.com as, “one of the best 5.8′s in BCC!” Although it is a fun climb with some pretty good exposure and a couple of heart-pounding run-outs, there are climbers (including myself,) who would take issue with the 5.8 rating. At the beginning of the climb, it feels a bit harder than that.
Matt Walker climbing on Glass Ocean in Big Cottonwood Canyon.
The start of the climb consists of a smooth, steep section where problem-solving skills come into play in a big way. Foot holds are tiny ledges and for some moves, smearing on slick quartzite. Crimpy hand holds demand finger strength and balance as lay-backing and small traverses will get you past the second bolt. To add to the difficulty of the beginning crux, a fall just before the second bolt could possibly result in hitting the ground. Any 5.8 that features such puzzling moves with a real danger of decking is a pretty stout 5.8, but since it is rated as such, Glass Ocean is a test piece for any 5.8 leader.
Matt Walker nears the crux on the rock climb, Glass Ocean.
Once the crux is passed, a ledge is reached where the climbing gets considerably easier, but feels like a true 5.8. Smooth holds and tricky moves between run-out bolt placements make it a psychological challenge that amps up the fun.
Glass Ocean is a sport climb with 9 bolt plus anchors at the top. There is some traversing on the climb, especially at the ledge above the second bolt, so expect a little rope drag. The climb is long, so a 70 meter rope is needed for lowering back down. If using a 60 meter rope, you have to lower to the ledge where an easy scramble to the side gets you back to the bottom.
I completely agree, especially when leading Glass Ocean. The consensus rating on Mountain Project is a 5.8+ with several PG13 comments and one R. The website also points out, “It would be possible to deck between the second and third bolts (but not likely, as it is easy climbing around to the shelf), and also between the third and fourth bolts (because you are basically starting over again from the shelf, and could fall back down to it). This warning is not being issued as a scare tactic, but it should be issued because the possibility exists.” The worst part about this great 5.8 is the approach!