The White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park is among the most celebrated and sought-after mountain bike rides in Utah. Some friends and I recently rode the trail over four days and three nights and had an incredible journey.
The warm weather and sunny skies were gone when we emerged from our tents on the morning of the third day on the White Rim Trail. It was overcast and the wind was not promising an easy ride. Keeping a positive attitude, and the hope that the weather would clear up later in the day, we ate breakfast and saddled up on our bikes.
Setting out on the road, we looked forward to a mellow day with less miles to travel. But the weather decided that mellow wasn’t part of the program as heavy wind gusts kicked up, blowing head-on as we tried to ride against it. The wind pushed us around, threatening to tip over our bikes or at least shove us to the side of the road, where deep sand devoured our tires and sent us into a complete stop at times.
The day was a constant struggle as the gusts made biking on flat terrain feel like pedaling uphill. As we turned a corner, hope would swell up with the thought that the wind may then be at our backs. But the wind instead zipped around the curving canyon walls and continued to blast us from the front and sides. Sand and dust flew into our eyes and mouths. Bike gears and chains became coated. The wind was the single force of the day that dictated how fast we could travel, and how much we would enjoy our time.
But despite the constant fight with blowing dust, sand and air, there was no place else we would rather be. Regardless of conditions, we were all biking through a spectacular vista of red rock paradise. A much needed stop at Holman Canyon allowed us a repreive from the wind. This incredible slot canyon was the best part of the day, where we explored, crawled over water-filled potholes, and took pictures amidst the glowing, amber sandstone.
After the brief break enjoying Holman Canyon, we continued on and neared Hardscrabble Hill. The wind died down a bit, which allowed us to ride with renewed energy. We were now fueled by the thought that our camp was just on the other side of the only major climb of the day.
Hardscrabble Hill is another one of those ascents on the White Rim that bikers groan about, though it’s nowhere near as challenging as Murphy’s Hogback. We climbed Hardscrabble with little difficulty, aside from a broken chain that had to be repaired mid-climb. The very last section was the steepest part, and the loose rocks and sand prevented us from completing the climb without dismounting. But our efforts paid off with a view of the Green River far below.
The last few miles were a fun mix of rolling road with viewpoints of the river snaking around islands of sand, and an ancient Indian ruin built atop a hilly peninsula that featured a 360 degree view of the entire canyon. After one more steep and fast downhill, we made it to where we would spend our final night at the Hardscrabble campground.
We thought our early arrival to camp would allow us to kick back and enjoy some drinks and good conversation, but the winds started up again, only even worse than before. Our tents barely stayed secure on the ground, dust covered everything we owned, dark clouds hovered above, and snow started to fall as night descended. Our relaxing evening turned into a minor suffer-fest. But warm dinner, good beer and the distraction of having good friends around made the night bearable until we went to bed to rest up for the final day on the White Rim Trail.
If you go: Permits have to be reserved a year in advance to secure the best camping sites in the spring or fall when the temperatures in the desert are mild. The White Rim Trail is 100 miles long (80 if you use shuttle vehicles to cut out the paved road) and is best done in four days. You will need support vehicles to carry food, water and camping gear. There is nothing technical about the ride, but the distance and several steep hills require riders to be in good shape. It gets cold at night, so winter clothing is recommended.