Utah’s five National Parks garner a lot of praise, but none more than Zion. Why all the love? Simply put, this place is a wonderland. A multitude of rock formations crafted over millions of years mix with towering pine trees, trickling creeks, and deep slot canyons. It truly is a breathtaking and special place. The big ticket items in Zion (Angels Landing, The Narrows and The Subway to name a few) rightfully get a lot of headlines…and a lot of visitors. If you want to explore a zone that’s just as gorgeous, but sees far fewer guests, head to the Kolob Canyons district. You won’t be disappointed.
My girlfriend and I took a trip to Kolob Canyons in mid June of this year. Yes, temperatures were blazing at the Lee Pass Trailhead; it was 90 degrees by mid morning! Lucky for us, the bulk of our hike would be downhill. From the Lee Pass trailhead (the start of the La Verkin Creek Trail hike) to Kolob Arch it’s a 950’ elevation change over 7 miles. We buckled up our waistbelts and plunged into another world. The start of the La Verkin Creek Trail is all about million-dollar views. Timber Top Mountain and Shuntavi Butte are amongst the impressive features to the east. Below us, a world of lush canyon country opened up as far as the eye could see. Before long, we were immersed in the beauty of the Zion low country.
The trail follows Timber Creek for the first four miles of the journey. Just as we were getting a bit overheated, the trail descended steeply, and the junction with La Verkin Creek was attained. If you follow a small, sandy trail due south, you will find one of the finest backcountry swimming holes in the state of Utah- the perfect place to cool off after a few sweaty miles in the desert. At this point, the trail stays close to the creek and switches between hardpacked dirt and loose sand. The riparian nature of this area is outstanding. I was amazed to see huge patches of robust pine trees halfway up the buttes. The perennial flowers and bushes are plentiful, and so too are the insects and wildlife that comes with such an amazing array of flora. During our weekend in the canyon area, we witnessed snakes, deer, wild turkey, and a family of ducks hanging out by La Verkin Creek. Don’t let anyone tell you that the desert is devoid of life.
If you make the trek down La Verkin Creek, put Kolob Arch on your “must-see” list. With a span of 288’, this arch is one of the largest in the world. It hugs the walls behind it, and towers overhead from the viewing area directly below. Further exploration up La Verkin Creek is possible, and not far from the arch is an intersection with the Hop Valley Trail. Side hikes to Bear Trap Canyon and Willis Creek are possible for those who plan to stay longer than a day. Yes, backcountry camping is allowed at the thirteen sites along the trail. I highly recommend staying the night, as seeing the canyon walls lit up with alpenglow is worth the cost of a permit.
Getting There: From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south past Cedar City. Take Exit 40 to the Kolob Canyon Visitor Center. From there, take East Kolob Canyon Road and look for the signed parking area at the Lee Pass Trailhead.
Bonus Beta: You can reserve many of the backcountry campsites on La Verkin Creek Trail months in advance of your trip. However, it seems that the NPS keeps several of the choicest spots available only on a walk up basis. If you want to take your backpacking trip to the next level, try to reserve site #6 or #9. My partner and I stayed at #6 (Dipper Camp), and I have to tell you, it’s one of the best spots I’ve ever called home for a night. We also inspected #9, which offers wonderful views and lots of privacy.